Another thing that kept me away from
blogging last month was that I spent half of it in Alaska. I wrote a
two page epic hiking adventure in the journal at a yurt one night,
visited a couple Russian churches, and took a few notes on my visit
to a cabin in the wilderness that is on the National Registry of
Historic Places. The cabin was built by Richard Proenneke and has
been made semi-famous by a half-hour documentary featuring him.
He is known for his longevity, he spent
30 years in that cabin. He was also known for his craftsmanship, the
handle mechanism on the door is ingenious. He is a little lesser
known for his environmentalism.
In 1967 he was retired from the Navy
and decided that building a cabin in Alaska would be a challenge he’d
like to try. Challenging himself was a way of life. He had a friend
who had a cabin on Upper Twin Lake, just north of Port Alsworth, so
he spent that summer walking the area, finally settling on a spot
right next to his friend.
There were no hardware stores in the
area so whatever he needed, he had to bring or build. Space was saved
by bringing only the metal parts of drills or chisels and fashioning
the handles once he was there. This also led to one of my favorite
lines from the documentary, “today I needed a spoon, so I made a
spoon.”
His skills were excellent, and his
hiking pace was legendary, but many people have accomplished such
things in Alaska and elsewhere. Mr. Proenneke felt the lifestyle of
accomplishing things on your own, not wasting anything and spending
time reflecting on the wilderness, was worth sharing, so he also
filmed himself as he built and stocked the cabin. Originally, he
probably had no more in mind that simply making some instructional
manuals so others could share the experience.
As he returned to that isolated
wilderness year after year, he noted changes in people who came to
the area. He saw people no longer caring about the values he
cherished. Something you’ll see in his film or if you visit his
cabin is a lot of gas cans. He fashioned many useful storage and
carrying items by recycling old gas cans. But where did they come
from? He didn’t have a chainsaw or gas stove. They came from the
hunters. They would come out, shoot their moose and sometimes leave
everything behind except the antlers.
He wrote not only about how to live in
the woods but of the experience. Others, Sam Keith in particular, put
those journals and film into production and he gained a little fame.
This was not his goal, since of the gifts he said, “My
cabin and cache have been full to overflowing for quite some time and
each new load makes me wonder where I will stow it all. ... I do
appreciate everything but wish they would consider the poor miserable
brush rat more fortunate than they and spend their money to beat
death and taxes.”
When you see him talking about himself,
it’s easy to assume a level of conceit, but if wasn’t for his friends, we probably would have never heard of him. One of the park
rangers at the cabin said he corresponded with Aldo Leopold and
Willard Munger, but I haven’t been able to confirm that. She said
Dick did not save his letters, something that comes from living a
sparse lifestyle. So whatever he did, that’s lost to history.
Summing up my feelings about this
pilgrimage has been more of a challenge than I expected. The man
remains a bit of a mystery, and as with any public figure, he’s
what each of us want him to be. What struck me most on this trip was
that he did not harbor much anger. In any of the short descriptions
of him, no one ever called him “crusty” or a curmudgeon. Instead
they went out of their way to note how friendly he was despite his
isolation. Even his hunting was kept to a minimum, apparently out of
a kinship with the animals who shared his valley.
This is not to say that he withheld his
opinion. Throughout his discussions about carving handles or
constructing a food cache he scatters tidbits of the value of making
something useful, and being able to make something with quality and
craftsmanship. He ends his first book with a longer discussion on
those philosophies and on the positive affects it would have on all
of us if more people adopted them.
To try to give some sense of the man,
here’s part of a note that was left on his table,
“You didn’t find a padlock on my
door (maybe I should put one on) for I feel that a cabin in the
wilderness should be open to those who need shelter. My charge for
the use of it is reasonable, I think, although some no doubt will be
unable to afford what I ask, and that is – take care of it as if
you had carved it out with hand tools as I did. If when you leave
your conscience is clear, then you have paid the full amount.
This is beautiful country. It is even
more beautiful when the animals are left alive.
Thank you for your cooperation.”
R.L Proenneke
Somehow he managed to be “alone”
yet engaged. While alone he was listening to the world. He saw the
rise of polluters from the hunters to corporations. He also saw that
just as no single person can solve our environmental problems, no
single person caused them. Instead of loudly broadcasting anger over
the changes in the world he did not care for, he quietly showed us
how to live not just in nature, but with each other.